Well, we’ve made it down the west coast of France and are now pitched up in the beautiful seaside town of
Motrico (or Mutriku) in Spanish Basque Country. It’s been an intense time so far: finding time to drive, camp, sleep, busk, relax & eat, all the while keeping track of what day it is!
Our first stop: La Rochelle. A quaint cobbled town plop in the middle of France’s west coast with plenty of tourists! Our first day we played in an intersection marked by an anchor along the harbour next to artist stalls. It was good timing – sunset! We entertained a strolling crowd of pedestrians and a generous early bird dinner crowd in surrounding cafes who filled our kitty with golden silvery beautifully crafted 2 euro coins. Our best earnings so far!
The next day we set up down a small street with lots of foot traffic – but we were interrupted by rain and didn’t get the timing right. We can’t seem to wake up early enough to get to the morning markets or catch the lunchtime rush. If we’re too early in the afternoon we find ourselves in that awkward time playing to vacant cafe chairs and only a few meandering penniless tourists.
Busking Tip #1: Busk at Dusk
Posh Camping Sighting #1: Mr & Mrs Anal (he wore tight shorts & she used a pressure cooker)
Next stop: Biarritz! Caught by the police! We got a good hour in before a stern lady cop approached us and shook her finger for us to stop. Some cool kids came up and gave us tips on where to play in the nearby town of Anglet, which we did the next day under a cool gazeebo looking thing. Unfortunately we were up against rain (again!), a neighboring rugby tournament, and a workout class blasting Michael Jackson. How do you compete with Michael? We did manage to make 20 euro in 20 minutes, though. How, you ask? See Busking Tip #2.
Busking Tip #2: KIDS! Parents love to give their kids coins and take photos of them placing dosh in a bucket.
Phrases that should be translated in the Phrasebook: “Can we park here?” & “Can we trade music for food?”
Busking Tip #3: Good places to play in Bayonne? Halles (there is a market daily from 8-12noon), Rue Panecan, the Cathedral. Busking is illegal in Biarritz, why not play in nearby town of Anglet by the Beach (Sable d’or) during the afternoon/sunset from 8-10pm. Hendaye (on the way to San Sebastian right on FR/SP border) is also recommended.
Camping is expensive in Biarritz, so we headed inland and found an absolutely gorgeous town called Hasparren right in the foot of the Pyranees. There is a lovely remote campsite there called Chapital, with a really nice lady running it and very clean/new facilities (altho the shower is a bit cool!). There was a fair in town, so we walked in only to find not many people at all! There was a wedding about to take place, and a priest walked by and told us not to play! So, instead, we made friends with some ladies selling jewelry and they gave us a cup of wonderful coffee.
Stay tuned to see how Busking in San Sebastian pans out! How will the Spaniards react to Peghouse Rise?